On Saturday, we left Tofo for Barra, a beach town just north of Tofo. The beaches were just as beautiful as those in Tofo, white and serene, and we had them almost completely to ourselves. We alternated between drifting in the water, splashing in the waves, and digging for sea snails, crabs, and other tiny creatures.

The accommodation in Barra is farther and more spread out from the actual town than in Tofo, and most of the lodging is self-catering. We stayed at the Bay View Lodge, a pleasant collection of chalets each equipped with hot water, air conditioning, and cooking facilities, including a kitchen and an outdoor grill (or, if you are South African, a braai); alas, we had nothing to cook.

Of course, that wasn’t much of a problem. Steps away from our door was a restaurant called The Green Turtle, which was highly recommended by our friends in Maputo (and strangers on the internet). We arrived in Barra in time for a late lunch, and I ordered a salad with prawns and avocado that was so good I enjoyed the same thing for lunch the next day. Our dinner entrees were equally good: I had a fish that had a pesto sauce and ratatouille, all arranged very artfully on the plate, and Marc had some excellent grilled calamari and coconut rice.

Other highlights include the spiced coconut chips they bring you when you sit down, the fish samosas, and the “Coco Loco,” which was a shot of rum and fresh coconut water, all served up in an actual coconut, topped with a festive little cocktail umbrella.

Where We Stayed: Bay View Lodge
How We Got There: Taxi from Tofo (400 mets)
What We Ate: Exceptionally good seafood & coconut chips at The Green Turtle, located at the Bay View Lodge